5 Benefits to Concrete Floors for Everyday Living

Rough Linen I wonder how different it is for an old concrete floor? I painted mine, but I admit it isn't hardwearing as I'd like

jdforney Our old loft had concrete floors that we polished & sealed. They looked great. They were hard to walk on though without shoes, as our feet & legs got super tired after being there all day. I prefer to go barefoot at home, so this wasn't the best thing for me.

A huge plus for concrete, is being able to have radiant heat installed before the concrete is poured. Amazingly wonderful way to heat a home! And then the concrete tends to stay cooler in the summer months.

scarbowcow I've been standing on concrete floors at work for 21 years. Terrible on the legs and feet. Expect varicose veins.

lslav2012 Interesting, but definitely not my style. None of these rooms look warmer because of the floors, nor do the floors themselves appear to have any warmth- except the wood-stamped option. And if I wanted the look of wood, I'd go with wood. And if it's eco-friendliness that's appealing, there are hoards of used pallets available that make amazing floors.

kellystevens I love concrete floors. When we bought our house I had the carpets pulled up and finished the ground floor concrete slab with a concrete overlay. I generally don't stand for long periods of time when at home (other than the kitchen where the floors are hardwood) so it doesn't bother my feet/legs. It's cold in the winter but area rugs fix that and this is California so winter is short. The rest of the year I like the coolness and you can't beat it for easy care.

Dana Veach If I can't have real limestone floors, this would be my favorite alternative...smile...!!

lc29 Love the look, but my floors are cold with sub-floor and wood on top. I live near the beach in South California I can't imagine how cold they would be bare.

krissyb92603 In my next house, I'm definitely doing concrete floors with radiant floor heating. With 3 boys, 2 large dogs, and a cat, this flooring would be wonderful!! How nice for cleaning and you can't beat it for skateboarding/tricycle riding! LOL

skydiva I live NW of Atlanta. Is there a company that does concrete flooring (wood plank design) in my area? Also, which is better concrete or tile?

olldroo I'm sorry to be negative about this but I just can't help but wonder at the health issues to be faced in years to come living with these floors. As posters have said above it draws the legs and feet, making them tired, is not good for circulation and definitely affects all joints - ankles, knees, hips, spine and necks.

If you have young children would you take them to a playground finished with concrete or asphalt?? No, softfall is expected in this day and age to protect developing bodies from unnecessary stress. Why then would you expect to live with it in their home!!!

Even animals, especially large dogs, can be affected by being continuously on hard, unforgiving flooring.

lele smythe Question: Our otherwise finished basement has painted concrete floors. They are dirty and chipped and look terrible. How can they be refinished? Do they need to be completely stripped? Sounds like a nasty job...
Any suggestions appreciated!

tshome I love the look and ease of care of a concrete floor. Unfortunately, I'm getting older and can only imagine the harm walking on it constantly would do to these old feet and legs of mine. I still remember what it was like when I was in my teens standing on concrete for well over 8 hours a day while working in a grocery store. Too bad, though because I do think they can be beautiful.

rosebud3 I don't understand the comments about concrete floors being hard on your legs. What about tile? It is also a hard surface. I just pulled all the carpet out of my house. After seeing all that fine dirt under the pad I will never have carpet again, only area rugs. My front entry way is tiled and it is colder to bare feet than the concrete. Kitchen is porcelain tile, bathroom and spare room/studio is vinyl tile, living room and my bedroom will be stained concrete with area/throw rugs and runners. As far as standing in the kitchen, I would think really the only place in the house where you would stand for any length of time, there are plenty of leg friendly mats available for in front of sink and stove.

Now for my next house I wil spend the money for cork in most rooms, concrete in some, depending on the usage.

lsausele I'm seriously considering redoing our beach-side early '60s era condo floors in polished concrete with area rugs that can be changed out. Seems like a tremendous look and so practical and easy to care for. I, too, am confused about what makes this so difficult on the legs compared to tile? It seems like with pads and area rugs, and the wonderful mats now produced for kitchens.... that would be easy to manage. I'd love to see more articles/information on how to choose a contractor and more examples of the various styles.

Can Weng Staining concrete floors look so beauteous and subtle...

cluelessintheyard While all the positives listed are true, as a bodyworker I have to say, there are few surfaces one would consider for a residence that are more hostile to feet, discs, and joints than concrete. Truly, it's just brutal to the body.

Norma Sassone As a retired teacher who taught on industrial (read super thin) carpet installed over concrete, for 35 years - I can tell you it was a big part of my plantar fascitis and foot problems. Though, concrete looks great and is easy to keep clean (as is tile, wood and laminate) I am still a fan of carpet so i can walk around barefoot in my own home. Why has everyone become so anti-carpet in recent years? If you take off your shoes at the door, it stays clean, though you do need to be meticulous about vacuuming, especially if you have kids and pets. I cannot imagine a bedroom, living in a northern latitude as I do, with a cold floor of concrete or tile. Also, if you have high ceilings and large rooms, they sound like an echo chamber or a basketball court. But I do agree that they LOOK really cool and cutting edge.

cluelessintheyard @:rosebud3: In answer to your question, it's about hardness. Imagine taking a hammer to your tile and to a concrete floor. The tile will break, the concrete, barely a mark. Think hammer vs. jack hammer! Concrete is massively harder than other floorings with granite and marble coming in slightly further down the line. It has no "give", so the full impact of one's bodyweight is absorbed through the bones, joints, discs, nerves, etc. Muscles ache, too because they're being jarred with every step.
Apologies for the dissertation but I work with people with debilitating pain. Cork, tile, some rugs as well as wearing proper arch support if flat footed or good cushioning if you're in the high arch club make significant improvements in decompressing bodies. I LOVE my cork flooring in my kitchen and my hardwoods. I'm either shoeless or have designated indoor mules with cushioning.

olldroo Norma Sassone - nice to find a carpet fan on this website. I cannot understand the issues people have with carpet - especially relating to cleaning. All flooring gets dirty. All fooring has to be cleaned. The same amount of dirt comes into a home irrespective of the type of flooring, so how can carpet be so difficult. If you are going to clean a hard surface daily, then why wouldn't you clean a soft one!! It is like saying a white surface gets dirtier quicker than a dark surface. It doesn't, it just shows it. I vacuum my home irrespective of the surface regularly and thoroughly and have never had an issue with dirt in or under the carpet. In fact I recently replaced all my carpet and when the old one was removed after 45 years the only 'residue' was where the underlay had started to disintegrate.

I, too, love the warmth the muffled effect carpet has on noise in a home.

Yes, tiling is every bit as hard as concrete, another reason I only have that where I absolutely have to. Area rugs without additional padding would not offer sufficient cushioning but walking through a home going from rug to concrete/tile to rug and back to concrete would actually be more harmful to joints. Unless rugs are properly anchored, they are also dangerous.

I do hope you are having success treating your plantar fasciitis, it is such a painful problem. Maybe in 20 years time people will realise that concrete flooring is not as wonderful as it looks.

designwitch There is nothing quite so impressive as acid-etched concrete floors.

jinglebelle I have had the misfortune to live in a house built on a concrete slab - one of the old Levitt ranches built in the early 1950s - with the radiant heat in the floor. I have lived in this house for going on 51 years, and it has been a nightmare. If I could, I would tear this place down and build a real house on the site. I can't afford either to do that, or to move.

I fully blame these godforsaken concrete floors for the fact that I have had plantar fasciitis in both feet for the last 13 years, had to have a hip replacement 3 years ago, and now need to have both knees replaced. Standing and walking on these floors all these years has been very tiring and I am absolutely certain they contributed to my ailments, in addition to the concrete floors I've had to endure everywhere else, at workplaces, stores, etc. I have nothing good to say about concrete floors.

The radiant floor heat is nice, while it lasts. The geniuses that built these houses ignored basic chemistry and embedded copper piping in the concrete. After about 10-15 years, the reaction of the copper to the chemicals in the concrete causes corrosion, the pipes develop cracks, water leaks out and comes up through the floor. This has happened all over my house, ruining carpeting and the ugly asphalt floor tiles the genius builder also laid down. You can have a plumber break through the concrete and repair the pipe and pour new concrete over it, but this becomes cost prohibitive and futile after the 4th or 5th time. The last time I had this done, my plumber said I shouldn't spend the money on that any more, and get baseboard heat put in. That's an expense I have never been able to afford, and I don't like baseboard heat, anyway, because you lose floor space with it. Wherever the baseboard runs along a wall, you cannot have furniture flush against the wall. The rooms in this house are too small to give up any space to baseboard.

The last straw came last spring, when some new cracks opened up and water came up like a flood. I mopped constantly for days and had to shut the heat off earlier than usual to stop the water from coming up, which it continued to do, although at a lesser rate, for several more weeks. Everything that was on the floor in one of the rooms was soaked, and mildew started to set in. I spent days going through things, cleaning things, drying them and finding new storage for them. Even furniture was ruined. Nothing in this house is safe on the floor - if it has to be on the floor, it has to be in a sturdy plastic bin. Nearly all the floor tiles in this house have been ruined by water, one way or another; if not from these floor leaks, then from overflowing toilets or sinks, washing machine leaks, etc. Needless to say, there's been no carpeting here for years, and I have floor tiles breaking and coming up all the time, not that I like these tiles anyway. Good riddance to them, but I have to be careful walking, as it is possible to trip if my foot catches the edge of a tile that's still present where the rest have come up.

This winter I have relied only on electric space heaters to heat my house. If the day ever comes when I can get things fixed, I will have ONLY electric heating. I hope to go solar one of these days. I know there are new radiant floor heat systems that use electric tapes or whatever, and I will consider them, but I want a wood floor installed over this accursed concrete floor, first.

Another serious drawback to concrete is that anything you drop will break. I have lost a number of nice items that broke when they hit this floor, that would have been unharmed on a normal wood floor. As mentioned by others, it also is hard on pets. I had poodles who used to jump up and down on their hind legs; one slipped and hit her head on this damned floor, and we were quite worried. She checked out ok, but our hearts were in our mouths when it happened, and we tried to discourage them from jumping, which the

jinglebelle To finish my comment:

We tried to discourage the dogs from jumping, which they love to do.

My verdict on concrete floors is a resounding Bronx cheer. They've been a curse and plague to live with. Anyone who thinks they're chic, sleek and cool is sadly mistaken. If you opt for concrete floors, you WILL regret it. Take it from one who has lived with them for 50+ years. I KNOW.

olldroo jinglebelle (I'm surprised you still can) - I'm so sorry to read of all your misfortunes, but you have summed it all up. Granted you have have everything that could happen, happen but it just shows it is not impossible. While a house can be mended (if you can afford it), bodies can't. I just hope there are lessons here people will heed and learn - everything comes with a price, it is just whether the price is what you are willing to pay.

rosebud3 Olldroo, re the accumulation of dirt under carpet. My carpet was in for 23 years. I vacuumed and also bought a rug shampooer and also had it professionally cleaned from time to time. I live in New Mexico. We can't use water for fine green landscaped lawns. We have been in a drought condition for many years. My dogs can't help but bring dirt in and when it gets so dry and powdery it goes through the carpet and padding. A regular vacuum will not suck that up. If I ever get to live where I can have grass I may consider carpet again. Ask anyone in NM who has pulled carpet out of their house and they will tell you the same thing. Even the OCD can't keep up with the dust.

torontoelitecrete I think there are some issue here:
This article is about how concrete floor could be used as finished floor for those who already have concrete floor, i think no one will or can remove the wood subfloor and pour concrete.
About hardness of the concrete compare to tile, just not accurate i think, why because tile has a glazed surface that is as hard as steel, get a screw driver and try to scratch a tile and then do the same to a concrete floor. I think this is not relevant to the human fatigue or joint problem.
Last but not least its a dream for me to walk more than 100 step a day in my home, count work hour, tv time, eating and sleeping.

av8ricks I wanted saltillo tile for the house I was building but money was tight. I used iron sulfate (from a local nursery) to stain my floors a terra cotta color. Cleaning, Staining, sealing & finish coat (DIY project) cost me about 25 cents a square foot. The finish coat is acrylic and considered sacrificial, it will need to be replaced every few years. I included some passive solar in my design, so on sunny winter days, the sun does warm the floor on the south side. I admit the floor is hard on the knees. I do have thick wool area rugs in many rooms and recommend thick foam or anti-fatigue mats be placed anywhere you are likely to stand for extended time (like in front of sinks) Like tile floors, it shows dust and dog haris, but without grout lines, I find it easy to dust mop. Stained concrete definitely isn't for everyone, but it works for me.

lsausele Thanks all for taking the time to share your experiences! I was headed in the direction of concrete floors with a lot of enthusiasm until yesterday morning - the impact to the body never occurred to me! I'm very sorry to hear of all the ailments from the impact of concrete on joints, muscles, feet.... and now will begin exploring cork instead!

olldroo Isausele - check out Cancork's page here - they have a lot of great information on cork and I have noted many times that they are very helpful.

Rosebud, yes, granted there must be places on earth where conditions would not suit carpeted flooring and I guess the constant grit would not be kind to timber floors either. I just have noticed on this website a very strong reluctance to use carpet anywhere in the US - so often people just write it off as being dirty and I think it is a shame when in normal conditions and with proper cleaning it isn't.

Terry Dengler We had our basement concrete floors stained. And I would NOT recommend it to any one. We were warned that the results depended on the concrete and could not be guaranteed. But, we were confident, that, because our home was new, the floors would not have issues and would turn out great. Some areas got blotchy brown spots with more of the concrete color being left. Nothing can be done except to cover it with carpet or may be paint it. So disappointed.

cluelessintheyard @torontoelitecrete: I disagree completely. There is a large body of research on the subject of the health problems associated with living on concrete floors. I am techimpaired or I would imbed references here. A google search on the subject will keep anyone busy and very informed. There are also sites with suggestions on mitigating the impact for those who already live with concrete.
It was not my intent to hijack this thread. The home is gorgeous and very, very well done. But I have been a health care provider for nearly 30 yrs working with people's musckuloskeletal pain. I wouldn't have commented as I have unless I thought this well established infomation was pertinent to people reading this and considering whether to install concrete or stain an existing floor. This home would be just as spectacular with kinder flooring. Yes, initially it's less expensive but for many people, not everyone, it'll end up costing a lot more in medical bills and pain.

Nan When building I was told cork was not recommended for application over in floor heat so perhaps that has changed in 5 years or the people I spoke to were misinformed.
I am in my 2nd home in 11 years with ACID STAINED and ETCHED concrete floors over in floor heat and I LOVE THEM at 60 yrs of age. I wear proper shoes or slippers but my living/sleeping areas have area rugs so barefoot IS an option. Gelco makes a professional grade anti fatigue mat for kitchens in tons of patterns and colors. I found living on tile NO different in hardness and am so glad I did what I did. Besides, if one floor tile cracks it's a pain to repair and I've been there. The dog does have to slow his pace down when he gets excited as they can be slippery but some breeds just have better gripping type paws. My dog is 10 yrs old and 90lbs and has grown up on these floors. He's had to learn how to navigate on them if his feet are wet or the sun hits at a certain angle and causes a "scary" glare. He does love sleeping on them when he's hot in the summer. He has no joint or bone issues yet and that's saying something for a dog his size and age.
Concrete floors are a breeze to maintain and if the sealer is of high quality it's a no brainer. NO yellowing or fading which wood can do. They are most certainly warm looking depending on colors chosen etc. Sorry to the naysayers but I'm a huge fan. I have an etched large vine/leaf pattern that is so subtle but it leads you through the house from front to back. Concrete allows for much creativity at a reasonable price.

hbhwatkins I would love to see pictures of your floor--I am planning to have throughout our new structure. Did you use some type of additive to make sure there was not acid spotting?

Terry Dengler We had a professional do our floor. We may have been better off doing it our selves. I would have more control of the design of the stain.

beck02 I'm thinking of pulling up the old carpet in the kitchen & just polishing the cement slab underneath--would like a wood floor but right now that cost just isn't in the budget. I don't spend a lot of time in the kitchen, and for the area that I do (right in front of the sink) I'll get an anti-fatigue mat. I'm somewhat worried about the increased breakage from the occasional dropped plate or dish, but since we live in an extremely sandy area & the kitchen is usually a mess anyway, the easier clean up surface will more than off-set that. I wouldn't want it for the entire house though.

Nan hbwatkins: There was no additive. I would be happy to email more photos to you of my new home's floor. I have not posted photos on Houzz yet and have a new Mac so not terribly efficient with it yet. My etching/staining is done over the original sub floor ( ranch/slab over in floor heat) after extreme polishing. I was left with some wonderful patterns after the floor was prepped for staining due to the high spots that required more work. 99.9% of the people who see it LOVE it, however the designer who did the etching did not. He's very minimalist and likes solid looking surfaces but I prefer natural. Solidly stained concrete can look plastic to me. I prefer some mottling. It's all a matter of taste. I can give you other details when I send photos.

Nan Also.... water based versus acid staining is worth investigating. I have had both.

Nan For those who experienced poorly stained floors: Shame on the installer or stainer. Some think this can be a "quick and easy" job because you can apply it with a sprayer but speaking as a professional artist/painter that's not the case. One has to have some sense of what a good job is before they attempt this and practice makes perfect. Not everyone can become a faux painter by reading directions. I know those bare/thinning spots people speak of and I have seen many commercial installations that horrified me. Some areas look like they were running out of color and too lazy to mix more or perhaps didn't have enough and it was a custom color. The drips are from the spayer itself which is why I prefer brushes and have plenty of spray bottles on hand. Alway check the job before the sealer is applied- period. Ask for references or to see samples of their work. Go to one of their jobs and look at it in person if you can. Photos don't always show flaws. Depending on the color, more stain can be added or even a slightly different shade over what's there can often help the overall appearance and add some depth.

Terry Dengler I wish we would have taken the time to check the work before the sealer was down. The only thing, the floor would have had to dry for several days to get the right sense of what it may be. Unfortunately, we didn't have that much time before the dry waller was to come.

Nan @Terry: I get the drying process and inconvenience. Unfortunately that leaves the homeowner with little control. I'm so sorry you had this experience. Maybe an area rug will get you through the worst and soon you'll forget the staining job not being up to par. Many people don't notice the flaws like others do so hopefully it's not as bad as you think. Just do things that keep one's eye off the flaws if you can. Once the room is lived in and filled with your things, it will seem less important.

Terry Dengler Area rug for sure. And I'm sure you're right, it'll fade into the back ground especially once we get furniture and stuff in the rooms. thanks

av8ricks @ Terry ... then there are folks like me, I notice the flaws but like them. To my eye, the differences make the floor look more like stone instead of ceramic. I like the variations in how the stain took and there was only one spot in a closet where it didn't take at all. I considered using paint to make it match but decided against it. Before going with stain, I was looking at saltillo tiles, and was actually hoping I'd get a couple with dog prints in it. But that may just be me, I get tired of machine made "perfection" and appreciate seeing the hand of the artist in things. If it really bothers you, maybe you can do some decorative painting to cover it. I'm attaching a picture of the compass rose I did in my foyer, I wanted to get the mexican hand painted tile look, but maybe you can use it to get your creativity going for something you'd like in your house. Good Luck!

Showcase Gardens I have terrazzo floors that I love because they help keep the house cool here in South Florida. But after almost 60 years, they need a little love. Do any of you have suggestions of what to do? Can I polish them or stain them like concrete?

hbhwatkins nanjan: I would appreciate you sending me more photos. I absolutely love your floor. I would love to see options and more "good" concrete designs. I have heard about so many being displeased. We have our dirt work done and trying to coordinate the slab with the radiant heat installers ( any suggestions or pointers on the in floor heat?) I

Nan ok....I took some photos yesterday so hopefully I can send them w/o problems. Working on being computer savvy! If not, I can always email them but not sure how that is handled through Houzz. Also....my in floor heat system is awesome....I have 7 heat zones which may sound like overkill but am so glad I can control it like that. Not sure where you live but they did the garage as well since it was all on one slab and it's so nice to keep paint etc out there and not worry about it freezing...also nice to get into a warmer car! I live on the Peninsula in Wisconsin. My system is Triangle Tube....life time water heater/constant hot water- Look for photos later today.

Nan @hbhwatkins....I added photos to an idea book on my profile page and authorized your access. Happy to answer and questions you may have.

kellystevens Wow, lots of interesting comments. First, getting concrete overlay finish costs about the same as the cost to put in cork or hardwood floors (note you have to use engineered hardwood floating floor if putting over a concrete slab). I paid $10 sq ft. I got quotes for less, but went with the concrete artists that I thought did the best work. It's true that the process is not 100% predictable, and if I could make some changes to the finish, I would darken it more. My floors don't have radiant heat.

Polished concrete finish uses a diamond bit grinder to get a honed finish on the slab, and it generally costs about two to three times as much as concrete overlay. Also, not all concrete slabs are good candidates for the polished concrete treatment. Mine was not.

My house is 2 stories built on a hillside. The upper floor is the main living level and has all oak hardwood floors. The lower level is the guest suite plus a large one room addition and that's where I have concrete floors. Since I use it for an art studio the concrete floors tolerate abuse and if it gets stained or scratched it's part of the patina. I tend to wear running shoes when I paint and sit in a chair so no one needs to worry too much about my joints. Here is a pic - pardon the mess.

kellystevens A better shot of the floor to see color...

hbhwatkins So what makes the floor a good candidate for polished concrete? And desribe the difference please. Between honed and polished. I have looked at several different floors and some have said they were polished but they don't look really polished to me. And overlay is what you have? It just has a sealer correct?

Nan @hbhwatkins: Personal experience---my slab pour in this home was rough as I wasn't sure I'd be doing concrete flooring til late in the game, so it had flaws (high spots/rough spots etc) and needed fine tuning.There are so many different pour mixtures out there and communicating your intentions for the concrete is good so they know what mix is best. The way it's leveled off/finished as it cures and then how picky you are b/4 staining is important. Some literature says to let the concrete cure a certain amount of time b/4 staining (which I did since I used Kemiko Acid stains in my last home and others say it's not necessary (water based stains which I have now). Oily substances spilled or other construction mishaps like industrial glues are a couple things that can interfere with stain adhering. * Keep your concrete covered during construction as I did in my previous home and you should be fine. I didn't need to do anything to those floors but stain when everyone was finished and gone. We made sure they were nice and level and free of flaws b/4 anything else was done to them. ( A much better way to go and less work! ) Sealers are getting better all the time.....matt is an option now so that will not look polished. Don't scrimp on the quality of the sealer! It's the most important part of the process in my opinion.

hbhwatkins Thanks so much for the info--I am sure I will have more questions --we just finished the dirt work for the slab--did you do it DIY or have professionals do yours?

Nan @hbhwatkins....Professionals for all but the MBR/and MBR bath. It was a large area and I couldn't take on the whole house. I have concrete counters,FP and deep concrete window sills as well. Counters and FP were done by same concrete artisan. The sills I stained and sealed myself after they were poured and dry. I filled the gout lines( easy just time consuming) on the large vine design thru out the main living areas and the green staining, and stained the MBR and bath floors/sealer myself. If you looked at the photos I put up on my page you'll see the patterned floor in browns/green by the glass block shower...that's what I did myself.

hbhwatkins Yes, they were my favorite. In fact I sent you a private message telling you my email. Not sure where that shows up--Maybe your email. I'm kinda new to HOUZZ. I want concrete countertops as well. Any advice? Send pics of them as well if you have them. I'm trying to get all the info I can before I get to the point I have to make definite decisions.

torontoelitecrete Hi everyone,
Check my website, i install decorative concrete and epoxy floors, i can answer any questions you have.
www.torontoelitecrete.com

hbhwatkins Great! I assume Arkansas is out of your work area?

jinglebelle Thanks Olldroo for the sympathy, and Olldroo and cluelessintheyard for backing up my point about concrete floors being hard on one's body. It seems like most people aren't paying attention, though. They will be so, SO sorry in the end.

Not that I can afford to have it done now, but I wonder where I can find out if it's possible to put some kind of MODERN radiant heat over this ugly concrete, and cover it with a wood or cork flooring? It couldn't be too thick, otherwise I'd have the nightmare of having to have all the doors and trim undercut. I will NEVER, NEVER have water under my feet again!

olldroo jinglebelle - can't help you sorry, heated flooring is very minimal here, mainly only used in bathrooms if it is used at all, and with energy costs soaring, it is no longer an attractive proposition. In fact both cooling and heating issues are going to become a more significant part of building construction if the predictions regarding climate change are accurate. I wonder how long before that becomes an issue in the US.

The best suggestion I can make is to try Google. You never know what you will find there. Good luck with it. Cork is really nice and quiet too.

rosebud3 Terry D. Sorry you are disappointed with your concrete stain. I've been doing a lot of reading on the web about it. I was never keen on using the etching acid in the house but when I read how the color depends on a reaction to the contents in the concrete and may turn black if a certain substance was in it (forget what), I decided to use a water-based stain instead.

Wondering if any DIYers out their have used Behr's Concrete Stain? I've also read that using several coats of polyurethane gives a better finish/protection than a concrete sealer. Anyone have any experience with this?

I'll be painting ceilings and patching places where the carpet tack strips were removed, so it will be a while before I actually do any staining.

av8ricks @jinglebelle Another option to consider for heating is a mini-split system if radiant doesn't work out and you don't want to install ductwork. Many folks don't like the unit on the inside wall but for me the lack of ductwork (and dust) more than makes up for it. I was able to find an installer from a local HVAC school to install units I bought on-line but many installers want to sell you the unit and won't install owner supplied equipment. I wish you good luck and hope you can get your house to a place where you are comfortable.

jinglebelle olldroo - Sounds like you're not in the US? I agree that heating and cooling costs are going to be major issues for building construction, and it's already being addressed by a lot of architects and construction firms. Here in the US, there's a LEEDS program (sorry, don't remember what it stands for, but it has to do with Energy Efficient construction) where buildings are built to certain energy use standards. Even old buildings here are being retrofitted to be more energy efficient. They're doing fascinating things with this, such as green roofing, and of course solar panels, etc. I am all for it, as the world will be much better off if we stop using dirty fossil fuels, and more secure for not depending on major corporations and hostile nations for our fuel supplies. I'm an environmental nut from before the first Earth Day, so this all interests me on other levels, besides what to do about my own dilemma with this house. You're right, of course, I can Google to find out what type of floor heat and flooring I can use together, or what other options I have. Thanks for your thoughts.

av8ricks - I LOVE your username - great play on spelling - could be your license plate number too! Thanks for the idea about mini-split systems. I have seen them advertised by a local HVAC company, but haven't look into that yet. I have no objection to the unit on the wall, and it might be the best solution for me in the end. Then I could just cover the concrete floor with wood (or cork, if feasible) and wouldn't have to worry about the floors being especially cold. Another local advertiser does geothermal systems, but I have no idea what equipment they place in the house. I haven't delved deeply into any of it, because as I noted before, I can't afford anything right now. All good ideas, though.

I feel sorry for all these folks who are so gung-ho about concrete floors. I hope they get over it, or they will regret it in the end. I guess some people have to learn the hard way - pun intended, because it is the HARD way!

Nan @rosebud3--- The first concrete counters I had were wonderful and we used the concrete colorant from HOME DEPOT so it was integrated in that actual pour and not just applied on top.. It's all in the quality of your sealer. I have even used wood stain because I needed a certain color and long story short.... once sealed you'd never know.

olldroo No, jinglebelle, I am in Australia, and I really should be in bed right now. I had no idea what a HVAC was when I first started on here. I probably shouldn't promote one professional over another here but I have had a few chats with Cancork and found them really nice and helpful and their website is full of very interesting information on cork and I have a feeling it is not expensive at all. I had seen something about LEEDS and Googled it but sometimes I struggle with your terminology. Bizarre when we both speak English, but I am always interested in how other countries are doing things.

Hope you can get something organised to make your life easier soon.

jinglebelle I thought it might be Australia, from the "roo" part of your username. We Americans are overly prone to reducing many phrases to acronyms - HVAC means Heating, Ventilation and Air Conditioning. Most plumbing companies here take on all those jobs, so they call themselves HVAC companies. It's always fascinating to talk with English speakers in other countries, and we do perplex each other sometimes, but that's what's so much fun, as we learn to understand how others think. Even here in the US we have trouble understanding people from different areas of the country sometimes, as they have different words for things, or look at things in different ways. I'll look into cork one of these days. Hope you have a good night!

rosebud3 Nan, what kind of sealer did you use?

Nan It was from a company called Parker Paint in Green Bay, Wi. It comes in 5 gallon containers so it made sense. It is a fantastic product although I was happy not to be around after it was applied....very strong fumes but once dry it was undetectable. 5 years on this floor with kids and dogs and such and it's perfect. I hear they make a less shiny finish now which I would prefer. It was priced at around 60/gallon in '08 so x 5 it wasn't cheap but worth it! If you call them I'm sure they'll know what it's called....sorry I can't remember the exact product name.

njgardengal While concrete can look attractive and be a useful solution for some areas such as an entry hall or bathroom, it is very painful to stand upon.

3 negative experiences that you might wish to consider in making your decision:

1. my home near Philadelphia has a concrete slab floor for the entire first floor which makes the entire area very cold from the Fall through to late spring (despite carpeting installed wherever feasible) and has a definite impact on the size of my heating bills. What might be saved in installation costs might easily be spent in maintaining the house for a lifetime.

2. working in the kitchen is very hard on my feet and legs. I find I have no problem working in my mom's hardwood floor kitchen even when we are cooking all day for a family event.

3. I spent a day walking around at the Philadelphia Flower Show held in a convention hall with a concrete floor. Wearing comfortable shoes, I browsed for about 6 hours and then felt a sudden awful pain in my ankle - concrete floors got me again and I am wearing a brace until it heals.

Consider that for young and old, bodies can be fragile. Concrete is unforgiving in when someone falls.

Nan In floor heat cures the winter to spring chills...With that said, I would never have a concrete floor without the in floor heat in an area that has winter. It's all very personal but GOOD to point out what to consider before doing anything new. I also heat with southern facing clerestory windows and once the concrete surfaces (floor, sills and counters) heat up from the sun.....I have a very efficiently heated home and wouldn't trade it for anything less.

av8ricks If your considering radiant heat on concrete flooring for a new build, I suggest looking at rigid foam under the slab. This sight shows a builder that has been using it under brick flooring to keep heating bills down where the water tables are high. http://www.nmbuilder.com/radiantheating.html

hbhwatkins We are planning to use radiant heat in our new build in Ar. It will be all concrete slab and there are very few in our area in Arkansas who even install radiant heat. I havan't looked at the website that you suggested as of yet, but the one person about 50 miles from us that is coming to give us a quote uses water "line" ( I use that term because I know there is a technical/builder term however, I can't remember what it is) under the slab. I am assuming that is different from foam under the slam. Is it totally different than radiant heat? We plan to do all stained concrete floors

av8ricks @ hbwatkins the foam is just foam insulation under the slab it's not part of the heating system as such. It's main purpose is to provide a thermal break so you are only heating your slab not losing heat to the soil/water. I'm in the Memphis area, assuming your temps are similar, it isn't critical, but something to consider. Since you can't add it under a slab after the fact, best consider it before the pour. I know I did a few things up front so I could live cheaper afterwards. Also, it wasn't required but I did a DIY soil spray of termiticide before they put the plastic sheeting down. It did mean standing by and being ready to spray as soon as the crew leader gave me the word. I double sprayed the ground since the stuff sold at my local feed and seed was approximately 1/2 the strength of the pro-grade stuff. My house is AAC block frame so I also wasn't quite as worried about termite damage as I would have been for a wood frame house.

Nan av8ricks is right on. The water lines are installed over all the insulation before the pour. All I would add is get references!! I heard one horror story about leaks and such caused by an inexperienced installer. Once the concrete is poured you're out of luck. **They should run a test before the concrete is poured checking for leaks or pressure problems etc. This system has come a long way in the last 10 years so get a reputable company even if they have to travel farther than 50 mil. it's worth it! I still highly recommend Triangle Tube if they carry that line. The units are so sleek now and your water heater size will depend on your personal needs. Good luck. Its a good idea to take photos of where the lines run and even the electrical boxes etc since you won't have access from a basement or crawl space. It's good record keeping and will save you any headaches down the road.

hbhwatkins That information was so helpful. Thanks to both of you. We are in S. W Arkansas--near Texarkana so not much difference in temp at all. I am still trying to find more references so far not much luck. Can't even find many that install. I may need to look in the Hot Springs area. Probably some there. And pics help me understand the process. We may have more ? later. Thanks again.

av8ricks @ hbhwatkins - When I was looking for sub-contractors, my best references came from the supply houses. I ended up loving my local building supply store because they could always give me the name of one or two guys that did good work for a reasonable price. Since I was an owner-builder and and unknown, most of them were happy to let me buy materials up front (so they weren't taking that risk) and I paid for labor the day the job was completed. My slab guy set me straight about never paying deposits for labor and if they need it to do labor BEFORE they start the job, they shouldn't be in business. Depending on your plans and how energy efficient you have designed the house, radiant may not be a great choice. http://www.motherearthnews.com/ask-our-experts/radiant-floor-heating-zb0z09zblon.aspx#axzz2NWDNef8z Around here, most houses are built with central HVAC and the only radiant heat might be the electric mats in the bathroom. I have mini-splits (heat, cool & dehumidify) for my whole house but my understanding is they are infrequently installed around here and usually only in garages and bonus rooms. I got my mini-split installer by calling a local HVAC school but only found one commercial install company that would give me quote on installing the equipment I had already purchased. I went with the instructor because he wanted to be able to bring some of his students but the other company was so thorough I'd use them in a heartbeat. Also, when it came time to drywall, it was actually cheaper for me to hire someone. His material volume discount was so good that he materials, hanging & taping were the same as just buying the drywall from one of the big box stores. Feel free to e-mail me if there's anything I can help you with. av8ricks@yahoo.com

hbhwatkins Awesome thanks. Yea we are also doing the subcontracting ourselves. My husband has been around building all his life however, he doesn't have time to do much with his job being flexible but demanding. We will have a headache I know try to coordinate the subs gettig here when we need them. We have already run in to that. We are building a shop first before the garage and home before the log package arrives --suppose to be May --but at this point I can't see that happening because the slab is not down because it took so long on the dirtwork because of the rain. We don't even have the etc for the radiant heat and the concrete floor finalized so that will have to be done as well. What would be a reason we wouldn't want to do heat in floors? I don't want to get up to cold floors;( But I love the look of the stained concrete

Boris Zadkovic Hui

rosebud3 To all who have been adamantly against stained concrete floors. Initially I was planning to stain my bedroom and living room floors (concrete slab). I am hoping to sell my house in a year or two and HAD to pull out the old stained carpet. My budget is nonexistent and I couldn't even afford the least expensive carpet, even looked into carpet tile. Anyway, thanks to someone here, plans have changed. Someone mentioned new wood look peel and stick tiles. I found them at Lowe's. And the color Sunlit Maple is exactly what I had envisioned for my beach-themed bedroom.

I sat down with prices and calculator and this vinyl tile will cost me only $10 more than all the gallons of cleaner, solid and semi translucent stain, and polyurethane. And it will be odorless and not anywhere near as labor intensive as the stained concrete! Yay!

I had stopped at Home Depot first (first in driving pattern for errands). They didn't have the tile but they have a wood-look laminate for $.68/sq ft, and it's a color I like. With the underlayment and laminate it will be about $20.00 less than doing the stain.

I've never been a fan of laminate - it's just a "picture" of wood, and if a board gets damaged it's a pain to replace, but it will look good for putting the house on the market and again, so much easier to do, especially with 2 dogs. I was really fretting about what I would do with the dogs while doing the staining, especially the poly. They have never been away from me.

So thanks so much!!!!!

Also, the new owners can easily put carpet over the vinyl and if they want to put carpet in the living room it won't be difficult for them to remove the whole room laminate since it is a floating floor system.

rosebud3 Uh, misspoke on the living room. I will cost me $60 more. Still, in the scheme of things, and my labor time, worth it!

njgardengal Totally agree with Nan re in-floor heat, but my house was acquired with concrete floors and retrofitting to radiant heat is not feasible in enough areas of the house to warrant the expense and the displacement of lifestyle during the construction period. I visited iin a home with radiant heat and it was very comfortable and my hosts raved about the efficiency of the system -especially as it was mult-zoned.

Wouldn't it be lovely if contractors building with concrete slabs were more considerate of future occupants and provided for radiant? Installing during construction is so much more cost effective than retrofitting - especially in areas with extensive cold seasons.

maryphil After years of carpet and wood we opted for concrete when we built our house 12 years ago. We love our stained concrete floors. Yes, they are hard on the legs but not any worst than ceramic tile. Living in the South, they are perfect for our HOT summers. Durable for our rural lifestyle, stands up to kids and dogs and clean up easily with a steam mop. We have area rugs throughout the house. We have these removed and professionally cleaned as needed. Our allergies are now at a minimum.

Linda Knoblauch I had stained and scored concrete floors and couldn't wait to get rid of them. They looked beautiful right after it was done but it wasn't long before the beauty literally wore off. Besides being able to see every footprint (human and dog) in the finish, the finish also became dull quickly. I had my floors refinished about 9 months later and again the same thing happened in a short period of time. After about a year I noticed many areas where the stain appeared chipped off leaving blotches of ugliness. As mentioned in other post, concrete floors are hard on your feet. I had no regrets in covering my floor with hard wood.

maryphil We have had my stained, scored concrete floors for 12 years. We waxed them with paste wax and a commercial buffer prior to moving in. They have not been rewaxed except for touching up the kitchen during this entire time. We live in the country, have dogs and kids. I know others that placed a polyurethane finish on their floors. The poly will eventually wear off and peel. Then the entire floor has to be stripped. (yuck!!) My neighbors did an oil finish on their floors. They are beautiful and NO upkeep. (they are a mottled dark grey). Anyways, we still love my floors and would do it again. (We did! When we built our offices we did the same thing. The only difference is we did not score them nor would we score again; found dirt sometimes got trapped in the grooves.)

av8ricks My understanding was that the glossy top coat is considered a sacrificial coat and would need to be redone every couple years. Not surprising since it is an acrylic finish. I have found that using "mop & glo" gets rid of the dullness from the dogs nails and shoes. Once I started using it instead of all-purpose cleaner for my damp mopping, my floor finish isn't dull anymore.

dlconcidine I love the idea of concrete floors because of my multi-pet household. I could tile, but that would be cost prohibitive, my wood floors are a mess because of excessive drooling : ), plus sliding and scratching claws. Carpets are great but don't take the punishment well. I just wonder about the weight, I am on a crawlspace.

hbhwatkins Can someone give me the latest technique/process that is best for creating the best concrete floors for a new build? We are getting ready to pour the slab and someone mentioned to us about an additive that could be used when mixing the concrete, but that is about all the information I have. I just want to know the best most effective way to create a beautiful concrete floor. Advantages and disadvantages of different techniques etc. Thanks in advance for your responses.

maryphil We did not put an additive when the concrete was poured, however we did advise the concrete company that this was going to be our finished floor. Their mixture at the concrete plant for this pour may have differed. After the slab hardened and cured, we scored and stained the concrete PRIOR to any walls going up. The floors were stained via a mixture from Kemiko. This was mixed as directed and poured into a hand chemical hand sprayer ( like the one used for insect spray around the house) . The stain was sprayed directly onto the concrete. Be sure to cover all areas with the dye. The heavier the spray the more concentration of color. This technique dyed the concrete and gave it a mottled look. Repeat til you get the effect you are looking for. The dye was left to cure and then rinsed via the water hose. (the reason to do this prior to walls going up. ) At this time you may score the concrete or proceed with construction. You may also water hose all that concrete dust after scoring at this step. Construction then proceeded. Prior to us moving in we had the floors professionally waxed. They have been good for 12 years. Some prefer a polyurethane finish on their floor.

maryphil Reply to dlconcidine: Check w your contractor , but I do not think it is possible to do a concrete floor on a crawl space/ pier and beam due to to much give in the subfloor. This would cause cracking in the concrete. Your best alternative would be ceramic tile.

hbhwatkins To maryphil: Was this a DIY project or a hired professional? We are trying to decide if we want to tackle this project. We have friends that did their floor and aren't happy because there are rough areas--do you have any idea what causes this? Do you have pictures? I think I would like the mottled look. Some have mentioned an oil based finish, what kind of look does this give vs. the wax. I know I don't want the shine of poly. Suggestions anyone?

av8ricks I agree with maryphis on the no additives. When my foundation was being poured, there was rain in fthe forecast so instead of additives, my concrete guy added extra lime to the mix. It made my mix 4500 psi instead of 3500, most stains are reacting with the lime. I used Iron Sulfate/Copperas (sold as a fertilizer) for my stain and no acid. I applied it twice. After clean-up, to get rid of the rust dust, I sealed it and after the drywall was up applied an acrylic top coat. I'm guessing maryphil's finish is more durable than mine. Mine was low budget at about 25cents a square foot. (DIY- so no labor cost) For a new build, if the floor will be exposed to the elements, you will want to make sure you are using a chemically reactive stain. Also, I'd recommend the staining before hanging drywall since any over spray may react with the drywall and you may have to deal with bleed through. If you want tile type lines with out the actual grooves, since they can gather dirt, tape can be used but you have to make sure you roll it or otherwise ensure good adhesion. Googling homemade concrete stain should give you some good search results.
I used this article to understand the steps and it also explains why the stain may not take: http://extremehowto.com/concrete-staining-step-by-step/

hbhwatkins So the rough spots that I referred to are probably from too much acid in one place. We are out to save a penny as well. I think most are these days and especially when building a new house. Our new build is a log home so there won't be much dry wall involved alothough there will be a little. So you still recommend doing the floors first? Also, in response to the floor being exposed. Depending on coordinating the delivery of the log package and the weather there is always that possiblilty of the floors being exposed. So do we cover them or what is the best?

maryphil Our project was a DIY project as far as the staining and scoring, however my husband is a professional builder but not a concrete person. The rough spots on concrete are from the finishing of the concrete. The pourers should have worked that in better. The professional concrete finishers wait for the cream to rise to the top. They then do their finish work. We had our slab poured by our concrete crew since it was over 3500 sq. ft. Too much for a DIY to handle. Do the staining and groove cutting yourself and save some $$$$. Our stained slab was exposed for a couple of weeks, before the entire house enclosed. Did not hurt the floors. You may want to cover the floors with cardboard, in case the workmen drop their tools or boards and chip the floor during construction. Some people don't care. Just adds character. Also in a couple of areas, the oak leaves blew onto the wet concrete. We have oak leaf imprints, here and there; adds character.

Artisan Custom Homes Sorry, I am not at all familiar with the medici polyurethane flooring. Jeroen at Eurofloors may.

Helena Walsh I just purchased a town home with stained concrete floors. How do you repair visible cracks that have opened the seal. Can they be patched and resealed? What process?

av8ricks @Helena This link has a mention on page 2 for filling cracks. http://extremehowto.com/concrete-staining-step-by-step/2/ I had one that I filled and then used acrylic artist paint to color it and then resealed. It's noticeable if you know where to look, but I don't think anyone else notices it.

ikies design & construction There is also an alternative for the concrete look for floors, walls, facades - it s the concrete tile. I import mine from europe as i can get it in sizes up to 4x4 feet, making it look very realistic. The benefits are you can clean them even with the harshest chemicals, they will hardly ever need maintanance, you won t have to worry about inconsistencies in the pattern, it will always have it s initial shine and you can get them in a variety of colors and could even install them as backsplashes, cabinet finish, countertop finish, door finish and if you want you can order custom sizes up to 6-7 feet tall.

hbhwatkins Is the top right picture a stamped concrete tile? Are there visable seams where the tiles meet? How are they installed? How do they compare in price? I would love to have more information. I really want stained or stamped concrete in my new home and have done quite a bit of research but I am really concerned abou the color variations that can be a problem and all the elements that can cause concerns. I am really not a risk taker and would rather know what I am getting rather than hope that it turns out the way I expected. Do you have close up pics and/or counter top pics? Would love to have a website or contact info of where to get the tiles and look at colors. Thanks so much for the enlightenment, I had no idea concrete tiles exsisted that looked like stained/stamped concrete, I guess better terminology would be "custom" concrete.

ikies design & construction yes, they all are tiles in the above images. They do have seams, but if you get the large size tiles(around 4 foot by 4 foot) they are so spaced apart it looks like the normal seams you would get in concrete floors, plus you would get the mortar in the same color as the tile so it won't show as much. take a look at my ideabook and you will see it in examples to get an idea of what it could look like in your room. installation is the same as any tile. i have added some pictures in the ideabook for you that shows it installed in a bathroom counter.

ikies design & construction hbhwatkins, send me an email on: live@ikies.co and i can send you details for this tile

Viki Sonntag Thanks to everyone here for sharing so much detail. I too am doing a new construction and am leery of acid staining for environmental reasons. I asked my contractor about integral staining where the dyes are added to mix and he didn't want to do it -- something about the additives slowing the curing process and some machine he uses to finish causing changes in dye pigmentation. Has anyone had a good or bad experience with integral dyes? So now am leaning toward water based dye since I can do it DIY and there are no chemicals to worry about. My partner is skeptical of water-based stains thinking they won't retain their looks. Any experience to counter this anyone? Thanks!

hbhwatkins I too am doing a new build and have done tons of research and visited a concrete company that actually adds the color additives at the plant before pouring the concrete. There are several concrete artist ( for lack of a better title) that get their materials from this concrete plant and I asked for several names to confer about my project. The results of my conversations with the "artists"-- If you do add the color mix to the actual concrete mixture instead of a topical application the result is a deeper color and is "IN" the flooring obviously-- BUT the down side is that if the concrete company or the finisher are not totally comfortable and experienced you can have problems due to the fact that if you are stamping a design etc in the floor you have to do it in sections so that it all has the same appearance and it starts drying to quickly if you pour it all at one time. For example if you are pouring a entire 2500 sq. ft. area you can not pour it all at get positive stamp design results. You have to pour section by section. And as I was told if you want it all the same color the "folks" need to know what they are doing. But if you are doing different rooms different colors or having borders or a blend of colors this makes the job much much easier. My suggestion is find a finisher or artist and ask for references and go look at some of his/her work and totally go on what you see, talk to the home owner and ask the pros and cons and that will help you decide. That is what we did. And hoping for the same type of results based on this guys consist positive results. Hope this helps. Oh one more thing, there is one person that added the color mixture as the concrete was being poured and he said it turned out great but it is hit or miss so this technique sounded a little risky to me. :) I am like you about the staining--I am concerned about the harshness of it and I have seen lots with dull abrasive white spots and the owners are not happy with it. The concrete company told us what caused it --but at the moment I can't recall exactly the terms that were used to describe it so I won't try to repeat it. Good luck!

av8ricks @ viki My mom has COPD, so I wanted to minimize chemical exposure. I used Copperous (Iron sulfate) from my local nursery. I sprayed let it dry and sprayed again. After the floors dried, I scrubbed the residue and finished it. I got my basic chemical info from this site: http://www.stainedfloor.com/Iron_Recipes.html Good Luck!

Viki Sonntag av8ricks and hbhwatkins: Wow -- beautiful floors in return for good effort. Thanks for giving me ideas on how to proceed. Loved the homemade concrete stain.